Tag: organization

Drill Press Cart

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When I setup the new shop, I decided to finally put my planer on a cart and took over the one used by the bandsaw. Then the bandsaw needed somewhere to go, so I scooted the drill press over, added a piece of plywood to support the overhang, and screwed it down. It did not fit and had been terrible since day one. The sharp edges of the bandsaw table were an accident waiting to happen.

I did this because I’d been wanting a new cart for the old Homier Distributing Company BDM 5 Drill Press. It was too high and I needed more drawers so I could organize everything better. This move would surely force my hand, though it ended up taking over a year.

I’ll get to the cart in a minute, but there’s more to this story. For years, to change speeds on a drill press has required opening the top housing and moving belts. I restored that Homier over eight years ago and can’t ever remember changing the speeds, which isn’t good. Different materials and bits should be drilled at various speeds. The problem is almost always spinning too fast, which can dull bits and produce poor results. I saw the Nova Voyager drill press in a YouTube video and wanted one because of the digital features.

For what I do, I could never justify the cost. About two months ago I started searching for other options and found models where variable speed is adjusted by a handle. The popular budget version seemed to be the WEN 4214T (or the 6.2-amp WEN DP1263V). After more research I decided, when I was ready, I’d get the Bauer 12″ from Harbor Freight. Then on Christmas Eve morning a deal for the Bucktool DP12 popped up. I threw it in my cart and it was half off after discounts. Sold!

That new cart became a priority, so I determined a much lower height and the dimensions. I got out 4″ castors and 22″ drawer slides. I didn’t have enough 3/4″ plywood, so cut up MDF leftover from the outfeed table. Assembly was quick and attaching the slides to the cabinet before putting it together makes it so much easier.

I was worried about the castor screws pulling out of the MDF, so I glued and screwed pieces of 3/4″ plywood to the bottom of the cart and then the castors. I also added more support across the middle of the top, where the bulk of the machine’s weight will be. Then attached the top and a shiplap paneling back.

Next, I made four drawers.

The final step was to mount the drill press. The height of this cart is a huge improvement!

With everything done I organized the drawers and made a custom holder for my Forstner bits. I think I’ll eventually make a something for all the drill bits and everything that goes with the rotary tool.

Now the bandsaw could live by itself on the old cart. I removed the butcher block and replaced it with 3/4″ plywood to lower it as well. There isn’t much to go with it, so I was able to store other various plastic and metal materials in the cabinet. Those were the last boxes to unpack after the move!

Stay tuned for other cool drill press upgrades. Ideas are baking and parts have been ordered.

DIY Shop Towel Bar

Nick Momrik1 Comment

With my big shop table done and a lot of storage space to fill, I finally started to tackle the boxes and piles of things that have been sitting in the corner for nearly a year and a half. First up was towels, rags, cleaning supplies, and first aid. We had an unused plastic shelving unit, so I put it to use. It went between my Ryobi cordless tool wall and the utility sink.

Finally trying to pick things up!

I’ve been draping a hand towel over the edge of the sink since moving in and now I had a place to mount a towel bar. I quickly cut some 2×4 to size, so it would fit between the edges on the side of the top shelf.

Truss head screws, so they’re less likely to pull through the plastic.

Then I drilled four holes in the edge of that shelf and mounted the piece of wood. I drilled two more holes in a piece of PVC and mounted it to the wood.

Ignore the sand marks.

This was a quick project and it’s extremely useful. I love simple shop builds where functionality is the most important requirement.

Several years ago my aunt made me Lions and Red Wings towels that I use in the shop.

If you’re looking for a much nicer towel bar/rack, check out the rustic ones with hooks I made for Brandi’s old house or the combo of black walnut and railroad ties for our old previous house.

Outfeed Assembly Table – Part 3

Nick Momrik3 Comments

Time to finish this table. While part 1 and part 2 were quite involved, the rest was all about drawers. I needed to make use of the rest of the space inside the table.

First, I got to work on a cabinet next to the router station, on the front of the table. I wanted to use five sets of cheap drawer slides I salvaged from an old dresser. I had enough room for four deeper drawers, using 22″ slides. I took measurements and sketched out a plan. I had to design around the vice, which hung down below the frame of the table.

I cut a full bottom panel and some 2x4s for extra bracing. I wanted to make good use of space and have the most room for drawers on the right side of the table, so the vertical supports were made in the odd L shape again. The one on the left was cut to match up with the one from the router station.

In the middle, I needed something up top to connect to, so I cut a piece of 2×4 and would secure it in place after determining the exact width of the left drawer column. The vertical on the right needed some cut away around the vice.

Then I was able to cut all of the drawer sides, with two different depths for the different types of slides I was using. Or so I thought.

As I was going over some of my notes I realized I didn’t cut the back part of the middle and right verticals tall enough. To fix the mistake, I glued and pocket screwed on some patch pieces. I also had to recut longer sides for two drawers. From there I figured out the width of the left drawers based on the foam router bit storage tray I was using. Then I cut the fronts, backs, and bottoms for the five left drawers.

Assembly was quick with glue and brad nails.

I modified the old drawer slides with an angle grinder to remove tabs that were in the way for my use case.

I mounted the slides to the verticals for both columns of drawers. Then I was able to secure the left and right verticals to the table frame, attach slides to the left drawers, and put them in to guide the placement of the middle vertical. It got screwed in, along with the upper 2×4.

With the left column of drawers in, I figured out how wide the remaining parts needed to be for the right column of drawers and got them done. Then it was time for some drawer fronts and a false front, since the vice prevented a drawer from being installed there. This gave me a place for a recessed power strip with USB. I didn’t have enough matching handles, so I used two different styles I’ve bought at estate sales.

I filled in a few drawers.

I will never combine different drawer slides in a cabinet like this again. It was a major pain in the ass and too much to keep track of with the different mounting methods, widths, depths, and clearances. I had to adjust the placement of the old slides many times and alter some drawers. Wasn’t worth it.

The drawers for the right side of the table was much of the same and went together a lot faster. The table frame is slightly out of square, so the bottom drawer was a touch too tight and the top too loose. I had to route a recess on one and add some spacer material on the other. The handles were cut out of a test piece from the nightstands I made.

I cut a piece of shiplap paneling and closed off the back of the shelf. This leaves a little unused area in the middle back of the table. If I took out the drawers I could hide something back there. Shhh!

The saw outfeed and the huge work area are already amazing to have. This is really going to improve my processes in the shop. Here are some final photos.

Storage for a Ryobi Framing Nailer and Narrow Crown Stapler

Nick Momrik1 Comment

Quick build this weekend to expand my Ryobi tool storage wall (which moved to the new workshop) with spots for the framing nailer I got last year to build the shop wall and a narrow crown stapler I recently bought on sale.

As I’m writing this and seeing the pictures, I butt jointed the back and bottom incorrectly, which is why it’s too tall and not deep enough to match up with the old spots. Oh well!

It’s great to be back in the shop again and getting it more organized.

Outfeed Assembly Table – Part 2

Nick Momrik4 Comments

To keep the momentum going from part 1, I started the next phase of the build. This phase is the router station. I bought the Bosch 1617EVS router to use in a JessEm Mast-R-Lift II, with a POWERTEC 32″ fence. I also bought 2×48″ of T-track with four hold down clamps and a four pack of intersection kits.

First, I had to figure out exactly where to install everything. I placed the fence and lift (upside down) on the table to get a feel for it. Then I outlined the lift and drew in the T-tracks.

Router station setup with a lift and fence on a work table, showing precision tools and measuring instruments.

I cut a spacer equal to the distance from my router base to a 3/8″ straight bit. Then I used double-sided tape to secure the border pieces. I removed the material in two passes and cut out the middle with a jig saw. The radius on the corners was much larger than the router bit, so I free-handed those up to the pencil marks.

A router station setup on a workbench, featuring a Bosch router mounted on a plate, surrounded by wooden pieces and clamps for assembly.
Wooden frame pieces arranged around a cut-out section of MDF, prepared for router station assembly.
Cutout for router lift on a workbench surface, showing the surrounding wood and inner construction.
Close-up view of a JessEm router lift mounted on a flat surface, featuring circular opening and adjustment knobs.

I installed threaded inserts for the four bolts that secure the lift. Yet my centering was off, so it didn’t work out. I removed the inserts and drilled through to use longer bolts with a washer and nut under the table. I had to drill a recess in the bottom because I couldn’t find long enough bolts.

Close-up of a circular hole cut into a wooden surface, showing wood fibers and some markings around the edge.

Setting up to route the first T-track took a long time, like when I did the miter slot extensions. I got faster with each one, as I figured out a process and all of the spacing. That same spacer came in handy, as well as pieces of the T-tracks. I measured and cut all of the T-tracks.

Close-up of a router station setup showing a spacer labeled 'Ryobi Router Spacer w/ 1/8" bit' positioned on a wooden work table with T-tracks in place.
Close-up of a router table setup showing a T-track and fence alignment, with clamps securing components on a work surface.
A top view of a router table, showing a cut-out for the router lift and T-tracks outlined on a smooth surface, with workshop tools and materials visible in the background.
A close-up of a router table setup showing T-tracks being installed around a cutout for the router lift on a work surface.

I sanded the top and edges with 80 grit using my random orbital sander .Then I applied four coats of Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac. A day later I did a light hand sanding with 220 grit and applied paste wax.

A person applying Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac on a wood surface with a cloth, wearing a blue glove.
A wooden table surface featuring a routed hole for a router lift, with T-track outlines drawn on it and a yellow measuring tool positioned nearby.
A can of paste finishing wax and a cleaning cloth placed on a router table surface, featuring a cutout for the router lift.

A good router table needs dust collection and here are the parts I used for mine:

I had to build a cabinet to enclose the router lift, plus a drawer underneath. Due to the table’s frame and a need for the left side, I sketched out a plan. I was making a big version of the L-shaped Tetris piece.

Hand-drawn sketch of a cabinet design with labeled parts and notes, including measurements and assembly details.

The assembly had to be done inside the frame, due to the cabinet nesting up through the frame. After getting plywood to size, I cut various holes, attached 22″ drawer slides, routed a recess for the dust hood, and drilled pocket holes. It all screwed together quickly.

Interior view of a partially constructed router cabinet showing wooden framing and a large flat surface.
View of a router station cabinet with a Bosch router mounted above a shelf, showing the interior structure and power cord.
Underside view of a router station cabinet with a framed structure and a cut-out for dust collection.
A wooden table surface with a marked outline indicating the shape of a cutout.
A black dust hood positioned next to a cutout in a piece of wood, showing the preparation for dust collection in a router table setup.
A close-up of a jig saw cutting a rectangular opening into a wooden surface, with sawdust visible around the cut area.
A close-up view of a dust collection port mounted on a wooden table surface, surrounded by wood shavings.
A workbench with plywood pieces laid out, showing a cut-out section and drawer slides positioned along the top.
Interior view of a wooden cabinet for a router station, featuring a mounted dust collection port and a shelf.

Of course, when using the jig saw, I accidentally cut in to the new table top! I’m the only one who does this, right?

Close-up of a saw cutting through a wooden surface, showing fine wood shavings and a Bosch blade.

I caulked everywhere inside the dust box. Then I cut a door, mounted hinges, added a magnet close, and used weather stripping to seal it. The door got a hole with a vent cover to supply fresh air to the router and dust collection system. After some use I’ll see if I need to add a second vent. I mounted the lift, leveled it to the table, and bolted it in. The lift doesn’t came with a blank insert, so I bought one from an Etsy store.

An empty wooden cabinet without a door, showing internal structures and a dust collection port.
A wooden cabinet with a door open, showing a dust collection system inside and an attached hose on the side.
View of the inside of a router cabinet showing a mounted router, dust collection port, and electrical wiring.
Close-up view of the router mechanism and installation details inside a woodworking table, showing threaded inserts, bolts, and router components.
JessEm router lift plate with adjustment mechanism and mounting holes on a wooden surface.

Update: I did end up adding a second vent.

I cut all the pieces for the drawer, cut a rabbet where the bottom would slide in, and drilled pocket holes. Then I glued and screwed it together. Attached a drawer face and mounted a handle.

Various pieces of wood including a large panel, a long strip, and a smaller piece with cutouts, arranged on a work surface.
Close-up of a partially assembled wooden drawer with a lid resting on top, placed on a workbench in a workshop.
Close-up of a wooden drawer pulled out from a workshop cabinet, featuring a handle and a vent for dust collection.
A close-up view of a drawer in a router station, featuring a clear dust collection hose positioned next to a blue T-track with measurement markings.

Along the left side of the table, I installed my paper roll dispenser. A 90° and then a Y-fitting connect to the dust hood. A 2.5″ blast gate is attached to the other side of the Y, for a hose up to the fence. The power cord went through a 2″ Desk Grommet on the back side. I screwed a POWERTEC Paddle Switch to the front. These switches makes it quick and easy to turn off the machine with my knee. I put in a recessed power strip with USB ports. Then I clipped in the wires and mounted a heavy duty surge protector power strip. This allows me to plug in the table saw as well.

View of the underside of a woodworking table showing the dust collection system with a hose and various connectors.
A router station equipped with a dust collection system, including a clear hose connected to a dust hood, mounted on a wooden table with a fence and control panel.
A side view of a custom router station showing the plywood cabinet, dust collection system, drawer, and a red power switch.
View of the side of a router table cabinet showing a white panel with a power cord and dust collection hose exiting the side.
A close-up view of a mounted power strip featuring multiple outlets and a surge protector, with power cords neatly organized and secured underneath a router table.

The final thing was to lower the castor feet to raise the table up to the saw.

A woodworking table with a level placed on top, showing the setup for a router station, including a saw and T-track system in a workshop.

It’s so nice to have a large table table in the shop and I’m excited for the router, where it’s easy to use and always ready. Here are some more pictures.

A woodworking router table setup featuring a large wooden surface with T-tracks, a mounted router lift, and a dust collection system. The table includes various tools and materials organized on the surrounding wall.
A woodworking router station setup featuring a large wooden table, equipped with a fence and clamp, installed within a workshop environment.

There are the other accessories I bought for the router station, some of which can also be used at the table saw:

Head to Part 3, where I finish the table with a bunch of drawers for storage and organization.

Table Saw Cabinet

Nick Momrik2 Comments

There was a big open space under the right wing of my new SawStop and it was the perfect spot for a cabinet to organize the table saw accessories.

I pulled out a sheet of plywood that got roughed up during the move. Went through a few iterations of how to size the cabinet and where to cut the pieces from.

Assembly went pretty quick, only using screws in case I ever want to make adjustments. It’s not going to hold much weight, so no need for glue.

I dug through my hardware to find hinges, handles, and a magnet catch. Since I should rarely move this thing, I attached a set of non-swivel castors, which only added 2″ of height.

When I went to slide it under the saw I had a moment of panic because it didn’t fit! I hadn’t accounted for the triangle-shaped brackets attaching the legs to the saw wing. I ended up removing the castors from the SawStop’s mobile base and the cabinet slid in. If I ever need to move the saw, it only takes a few minutes to put the wheels back on.

In the lower right, you can see the saw blade holder I recently made. I added old handles to make it easier to grab.

This cabinet was quick to make and makes great use of what would be dead space. Time to start building an outfeed table!

Doubling My Spray Can Storage

Nick Momrik3 Comments

A little over a year and a half ago I made a box with dividers for storing spray paint.

It was built to slide in a shelf at the old house. I was able to get it out and moved to the new house. The 16″ depth was wasted space though. Look at how deep the cans were when laying with the back on the ground (those higher ones are actually a tall can on top of a standard can).

It turns out, a great size for spray cans is about eight inches, so I split it down the middle and wrestled out all of the dividers, which were partially glued in place.

Stack ’em, screw ’em together, and nail a back on the new half.

It was very tippy, so I rounded the corners on a larger piece of plywood to make a more stable base and pulled out office chair casters. The casters wouldn’t be great for any heavy shop furniture, so this was the perfect project to use them.

Cutting more dividers and then redoing all of the slots was the worst part of this project. It took well over 250 cuts on the table saw.

A handful of the new hardboard pieces were too long and needed to be trimmed. Other than that, the assembly went much smoother than I expected, with a little persuasion from a dead blow hammer. I have no idea why I used glue on that first iteration. Maybe it was needed with the deeper box, but this one is very stable without a drop of glue.

This is another great upgrade to the shop. After adding all of my spray paint, lubricants, spray adhesives, and other oddball cans there is plenty of room for more.

Saw Blade Holder

Nick Momrik2 Comments

Before I make the outfeed table for my table saw I figured I would work on things to organize everything for the saw. There is a big open space under the right wing, so I’ll be making a cabinet to hold the sled, jigs, blades, and accessories. I had an idea for a saw blade holder, so I took a chunk off an old 6×6″ post, cut some slots, and trimmed the height and length.

I’ll give the holder some sanding around the edges, but otherwise this is done. It’s nice when a build goes according to plan, especially a quick shop project.

New Workshop

Nick Momrik8 Comments

A week after moving in, Dad came down and we built a wall in the basement to close off the workshop and keep sawdust contained. I eventually finished the rest of the show side of the wall and added trim to the door.

The Cat6 cables and networking rack are a project I hope to tackle over the holidays.

In order to keep as much dust as possible in the shop, I bought a can of spray foam to fill gaps around pipes, ducts, and beams. Since I hade some large gaps, I had to do two applications. I used wider painter’s tape to hold the foam back (picture below was taken during round two).

Then I wired all of the shop outlets and put up OSB for my wall material. It was a cheap option at about $15 a sheet, while allowing me to screw lighter things anywhere. The first things to go on the wall were all of my Ryobi storage, since the tools had been scattered across the floor for weeks. I absolutely love the 10 foot foundation, which allowed me to put wood storage high and out of the way.

I put up my clamp racks and emptied a lot of boxes to organize my tool wall. The Allen key holder was a quick side project.

I replaced all of the lighting in the gym and the workshop with a 10 pack of 4′ LED light fixtures for $76 from Amazon and it made a big difference. Here’s a before and after of the gym.

I had wanted a SawStop for years and the move seemed like good excuse to sell my old Craftsman table saw instead of hauling it to a new basement. I bought SawStop’s Contractor Saw with the 36” T-Glide Fence Assembly, Mobile Base, and Cast Iron Wings. She’s a beauty, a joy to use, and the safety features can’t be beat.

I had a general idea of the layout I was going for in the shop, but in order to get a feel for the space, I measured all of my carts and tools so I could model in SketchUp. I started with the structure, items on the main wall, and things that can’t be moved, like pipes and the shop sink.

Then I needed all of the tool and storage carts. I imported a lot of the items from SketchUp’s 3D Warehouse and scaled everything to the correct size.

Eventually I got to a comfortable arrangement in the model and could physically put things in place. Over the course of several weeks I made a lot of adjustments. I even moved my band saw over to the drill press cart so I could repurpose it’s cart for my planer. I think I ended with a very good first iteration. Here are comparisons of the model and the actual room.

I can start making things again! One of the first builds is going to be an outfeed/assembly table for the table saw. It’ll have some neat features and storage. In the models I made a table top of about the correct size and in real life you see my old table top, which is too small and low, on saw horses.

Home Gym Weight Plate Storage v3

Nick Momrik2 Comments

During the move, version 2 of our weight plate storage was tossed in the trash because we sold our 55 pound plates and wanted to evenly split the plates on either side of the rack in our new gym.

I took some measurements and did a little math for a general idea of how much wood I’d need.

Grabbed some old oak flooring and started processing it on the miter saw, planer, and table saw.

I realized I had measured the full width of the plates, which I don’t need since the storage racks are only at the bottom. After recalculating, I cut a bunch of the dividers and did a mockup, when I realized I could add another slot to hold the barbell collars. The extra spacing on the sides of the plates ended up being less than my original guess as well.

Then I to cut everything to size, and drilled a lot of holes.

The assembly process was complicated, since I had to individually square up and attach eight dividers. Then the other side needed to have glue applied to all eight dividers before getting 16 holes to line up.

The second one is always easier and I was able to use the assembled rack as my 90° to clamp to.

More sanding and then black paint. Brushing on the paint with the oak’s grain pattern was a challenge, especially in some of the small gaps between dividers, so it took many coats.

The area looks a lot cleaner and the weights will be a lot easier to use.

Here are the final dimensions for anyone who wants to build their own:

  • All wood: 5/8″ thick and 3-11/16″ tall
  • Front and Back: 27-3/8″ long
  • Dividers: 15-1/4″ long
  • Gaps between dividers:
    • 2×45#: 5″
    • 2×35#: 3-7/8″
    • 2×25#: 2-15/16″
    • 15# + 2×10#: 5-5/8″
    • Metal 10#: 1-1/8″
    • Metal 2×5#: 1-1/4″
    • Collars: 2-5/8″

Everything will depend on the size of your plates though. I measured the thickness of our plates and ended up adding a half inch for the gaps, which feels good for moving the plates in and out.