Building a Shop Air Filter with Box Fans

Over the years, I’ve seen many versions of a shop air filter, made from box fans and 20×20 inch furnace filters. A few years ago I picked up some old box fans on Facebook Marketplace and bought a pack of filters from Sam’s Club. They’ve been stacked in the corner.

It was finally time to build my air filter. I removed the back covers, feet, handles, and knobs from the fans. I got my first look at the switches inside, which are nearly identical.

I’d easily be able to wire the fans together, so I removed the switches and power cords.

I put together a frame from OSB, cut slots to feed the wires through, and screwed the box fans in.

Then I grabbed wood that had been salvaged from a pallet to construct a door.

On the back side, I used glue and brad nails to attach plywood rails. I also made tabs to hold the filters secure.

I attached the door with a couple hinges and made some notched tabs to hold the door shut.

Then it was time to work on the wiring and electronics. I had recently watched a YouTube video showing how to make an old fan smart and his code with ESPHome and Home Assistant gave my a great start. I bought a 4 channel relay board to use with a an ESP8266 development board, a button, and some LEDs. I tore open an old USB power plug and was originally going to tie in the 120 volt line, but decided against it. First, I tested out the circuit and code on a breadboard and then soldering things up more permanently.

A plastic screw container was a good side, so I used hot glue to secure the boards and then wired up all of the fan connections.

I’m not sure if I’ll ever use the button, but it allows me to cycle between the three speeds and turn it off. The three LEDs show which speed is currently running. The only thing I got wrong was reversing the low and high speeds, which was a quick fix in the ESPHome code. Speaking of the code, here’s mine.

esphome:
  name: shop-air-filter
  friendly_name: Shop Air Filter

esp8266:
  board: d1_mini

logger:
  level: WARN

api:
  encryption:
    key: "input_yours"

ota:
  - platform: esphome
    password: "input_yours"

wifi:
  min_auth_mode: WPA2
  ssid: !secret wifi_ssid
  password: !secret wifi_password
  manual_ip:
    static_ip: 192.168.1.2
    gateway: 192.168.1.1
    subnet: 255.255.255.0

time:
  - platform: homeassistant
    id: home_time

binary_sensor:
  - platform: gpio
    pin: {number: D5, mode: INPUT_PULLUP, inverted: true}
    name: "Speed Button"
    on_press:
      then:
        - script.execute: cycle_fan_speed

  - platform: template
    id: active
    lambda: 'return id( fan_speed ).state > 0;'

switch:
  # Relays
  - platform: gpio
    pin: D3
    id: speed_1
    inverted: true
    interlock: &fan_interlock [speed_1, speed_2, speed_3]
    internal: true
  - platform: gpio
    pin: D2
    id: speed_2
    inverted: true
    interlock: *fan_interlock
    internal: true
  - platform: gpio
    pin: D1
    id: speed_3
    inverted: true
    interlock: *fan_interlock
    internal: true

  # LEDs
  - platform: gpio
    pin: D6
    id: led_1
    internal: true
  - platform: gpio
    pin: D7
    id: led_2
    internal: true
  - platform: gpio
    pin: D8
    id: led_3
    internal: true

number:
  - platform: template
    name: "Fan Speed"
    id: fan_speed
    min_value: 0
    max_value: 3
    step: 1
    optimistic: true
    restore_value: true
    on_value:
      then:
        - script.execute: set_shop_filter_speed

text_sensor:
  - platform: template
    name: "Current State"
    id: current_state

sensor:
  - platform: duty_time
    name: "Filter Runtime"
    id: shop_filter_usage
    sensor: active
    restore: true
    unit_of_measurement: h
    accuracy_decimals: 1
    filters:
      - multiply: 0.000277778 # Convert seconds to hours

button:
  - platform: template
    name: "Reset Filter Timer"
    icon: "mdi:timer-off"
    on_press:
      then:
        - sensor.duty_time.reset: shop_filter_usage

script:
  - id: set_shop_filter_speed
    mode: restart
    then:
      - switch.turn_off: speed_1
      - switch.turn_off: speed_2
      - switch.turn_off: speed_3
      - switch.turn_off: led_1 
      - switch.turn_off: led_2
      - switch.turn_off: led_3
      - delay: 300ms 
      - lambda: |-
          if ( id( fan_speed ).state == 0 ) {
            id( current_state ).publish_state( "Off" );
          } else if ( id( fan_speed ).state == 1 ) {
            id( speed_1 ).turn_on();
            id( led_1 ).turn_on();
            id( current_state ).publish_state( "Low" );
          } else if ( id( fan_speed ).state == 2 ) {
            id( speed_2 ).turn_on();
            id( led_1 ).turn_on(); id( led_2 ).turn_on();
            id( current_state ).publish_state( "Medium" );
          } else if ( id( fan_speed ).state == 3 ) {
            id( speed_3 ).turn_on();
            id( led_1 ).turn_on(); id( led_2 ).turn_on(); id( led_3 ).turn_on();
            id( current_state ).publish_state( "High" );
          }
  - id: cycle_fan_speed
    then:
      - lambda: |-
          int next_speed = id( fan_speed ).state + 1;
          if ( next_speed > 3 ) next_speed = 0;
          id( fan_speed ).publish_state( next_speed );

I used Google Gemini to help and it had a great suggestion to track the run time and add a maintenance reminder when it was time to replace the filters.

In Home Assistant I created some automations. My dust collector uses a smart plug, so when it draws electricity, the air filter automatically turns on at high speed. When the dust collector turns off, the air filter continues to run for 15 minutes before turning off. If I had to remember to turn on the air filter all the time, it would rarely happen, so this is amazing.

I’m still on lifting restrictions for several weeks so Brandi helped me install the air filter on the ceiling.

I wish I hadn’t waited so long to build this!

DIY Air Quality Monitors for Home Assistant

The upgraded IKEA air quality monitors I did work great, but the LED indication isn’t great for a bedroom and the fan noise was annoying in my office. So I wanted to create a couple of my own devices for those locations. I used:

The SEN50 is a big upgrade over the PM sensors used in the IKEA devices and I used the Si7021 in place of the BME280 I had used because I think they’re a bit better. I soldered 47µF electrolytic capacitors from a big kit I’ve had (similar on Amazon) to the ENS150 modules to improve their power.

Then I attached 5 of the crimped wires to a 6P JST connector, which is what the SEN50 modules require. I’m note sure why buying the actual cable for these SEN50s are so expensive, but I got the entire JST kit for cheaper than a couple of the special cables.

All three sensors communicate with the microcontroller over I²C, so a breadboard test was easy to wire up. The SEN50 does require 5 volts instead of 3.3, so I’m glad I checked.

The ESPHome YAML code is very similar to the code used for the modified IKEA air quality monitors.

substitutions:
  slug: demo
  friendly: Demo

esphome:
  name: ${slug}-wemos-d1
  friendly_name: ${friendly} Wemos D1

esp8266:
  board: d1_mini

logger:
  #level: WARN

api:
  encryption:
    key: 'xxx'

ota:
  - platform: esphome
    password: "xxx"

wifi:
  ssid: !secret wifi_ssid
  password: !secret wifi_password
  manual_ip:
    static_ip: xxx
    gateway: xxx
    subnet: 255.255.255.0

i2c:
  frequency: 50kHz

sensor:
  - platform: sen5x
    pm_1_0:
      name: PM 1µm
      accuracy_decimals: 0
    pm_2_5:
      name: PM 2.5µm
      accuracy_decimals: 0
    pm_4_0:
      name: PM 4µm
      accuracy_decimals: 0
    pm_10_0:
      name: PM 10µm
      accuracy_decimals: 0

  - platform: htu21d
    model: SI7021
    temperature:
      name: Temperature
      id: ${slug}_temp
    humidity:
      name: Humidity
      id: ${slug}_humid

  - platform: aht10
    variant: AHT20
    temperature:
      name: AHT21 Temperature
      id: ${slug}_aht21_temp
    humidity:
      name: AHT21 Humidity
      id: ${slug}_aht21_humid

  - platform: ens160_i2c
    address: 0x53
    eco2:
      name: CO²
    tvoc:
      name: VOC
    aqi:
      id: demo_aqi
      name: AQI
    compensation:
      temperature: ${slug}_aht21_temp
      humidity: ${slug}_aht21_humid

text_sensor:
  - platform: template
    name: AQI Rating
    lambda: |-
      switch ( (int) ( id( ${slug}_aqi ).state ) ) {
        case 1: return {"Excellent"};
        case 2: return {"Good"};
        case 3: return {"Moderate"};
        case 4: return {"Poor"};
        case 5: return {"Unhealthy"};
        default: return {"N/A"};
      }

These resources helped out:

The project boxes had some standoffs on the bottom, which I snipped off and then sanded with a rotary tool. I pulled out my box of proto boards and found a size almost exactly double what I needed, so I cut out a sliver and ended up with a piece for each box. I also cut vent holes for the SEN50 sensors.

In order to get everything to fit I decided to put the microcontroller on the bottom of the board. After mocking things up I did all of the soldering. I was hoping to be able to mount everything with connectors so it could easily be taken apart, but there wasn’t enough room and I didn’t want bigger boxes.

I did some continuity testing along the way and everything worked when I connected power. With the boards ready I cut more access and ventilation holes in the boxes.

I soldered the Si7021 on to its wires outside of the enclosure so it wouldn’t be exposed to unnecessary heat and used hot gun to secure everything.

I’m really happy with how these turned out. Here’s a view of the office data on my Home Assistant dashboard.

This was definitely a project where I wished I had a 3D printer to design custom boxes. Some day, when I’m caught up on my project list and can give it proper attention. I know if I get one now I’ll spend a ton of time with it and neglect other projects in my pipeline.

Home Assistant Air Quality Monitors from IKEA Vindriktning

IKEA recently discontinued Vindriktning, their older air quality monitor.

Inside the device, they put a cubic PM1006K particle sensor. I bought three for $16.95 each last year, because I’d seen people hack them by adding sensors and a Wi-Fi microcontroller to send all of the data to Home Assistant. For my modding I bought:

The YouTube video linked above is a great guide to follow. I didn’t connect wires to the fan or the light sensor since I had no use for them. I also didn’t stack my sensors because I wanted the BME280 to be outside of the enclosure, where it would be less affected by the heat produced by the ENS160 and D1.

Even with the sensor outside of the case, the BME280 still reads high, because it heats itself up. I actually tested different lengths of wires and placements of the sensor before realizing I was still going to have to adjust the data. An ESPHome filter made the adjustment easy, which I did individually for each unit after comparing to a mobile Ecobee thermostat sensor. This is the code from the unit for my shop.

substitutions:
  slug: shop
  friendly: Shop

esphome:
  name: ${slug}-air-quality
  friendly_name: ${friendly} Air Quality

esp8266:
  board: d1_mini

logger:
  level: WARN

api:
  encryption:
    key: 'xxx'

ota:
  - platform: esphome
    password: 'xxx'

wifi:
  ssid: !secret wifi_ssid
  password: !secret wifi_password
  manual_ip:
    static_ip: xxx
    gateway: xxx
    subnet: 255.255.255.0

i2c:
  frequency: 100kHz

uart:
  - rx_pin: D7
    baud_rate: 9600

sensor:
  - platform: pm1006
    pm_2_5:
      name: PM 2.5µm

  - platform: bme280_i2c
    address: 0x76
    temperature:
      name: Temperature
      id: ${slug}_temp
      filters:
        - offset: -3.38
    humidity:
      name: Humidity
      id: ${slug}_humid
      filters:
        - offset: 7.63
    iir_filter: 16x

  - platform: aht10
    variant: AHT20
    temperature:
      name: AHT21 Temperature
      id: ${slug}_aht21_temp
    humidity:
      name: AHT21 Humidity
      id: ${slug}_aht21_humid

  - platform: ens160_i2c
    address: 0x53
    eco2:
      name: CO²
    tvoc:
      name: VOC
    aqi:
      id: ${slug}_aqi
      name: AQI
    compensation:
      temperature: ${slug}_aht21_temp
      humidity: ${slug}_aht21_humid

text_sensor:
  - platform: template
    name: AQI Rating
    lambda: |-
      switch ( (int) ( id( ${slug}_aqi ).state ) ) {
        case 1: return {"Excellent"};
        case 2: return {"Good"};
        case 3: return {"Moderate"};
        case 4: return {"Poor"};
        case 5: return {"Unhealthy"};
        default: return {"N/A"};
      }

These resources were a huge help when I wired everything up and made changes to the YAML code:

Here is how I’m displaying the data on one of my Home Assistant dashboards.

As I was working on this project I knew I wanted a couple more air quality monitors around the house, which will be finished soon.

Update: I’ve had to make a small update by adding a 47uF capacitor to each ENS160 board, because they have power issues, causing the reading to stop for periods of time. My boards matched up with the right ones in the picture at that link. Here’s a picture of another ENS160 I modified, since it was a tight squeeze to made the modification on the devices I posted about here with everything already wired up. I also realized I was powering these through the 3V3 pin instead of VIN, so I fixed that.

I’ve also improved the display of the data on my dashboard by using mini-graph-card.

Creating an ESPHome Remote Control Device with Infrared & Radio Frequency

In order to automate the processes of getting the golf sim ready to play and shutting it all down when finished I needed to create a remote control device. I’m using Home Assistant (HA) to run my home smart system (more posts to come), but two things involved with the golf sim aren’t connected to the network:

The projector has an infrared (IR) remote and the light has a radio frequency (RF) remote. I’ve done some things with IR and still had a stash of IR LEDs (for transmitting) and receivers. I’ve never attempted any RF stuff, so I ordered a 5 pack of 433mhz wireless RF transmitter and receiver pairs.

Since I’m using HA, I let ESPHome handle all of the main programming. All I had to do was wire everything properly and get the configuration correct. I made use of an old ESP8266 NodeMCU microcontroller and worked on the IR aspect of the project first.

When I took the picture I was using a 470Ω resistor, which I eventually switched to 100Ω, to increase the strength of the IR signal. The transistor is a PN2222A. Here’s the ESPHome configuration:

esphome:
  name: golf-remote
  friendly_name: Golf Remote

esp8266:
  board: nodemcuv2

logger:

api:
  encryption:
    key: "xxxxxxxxxx"

ota:
  - platform: esphome
    password: "xxxxxxxxxx"

wifi:
  ssid: !secret wifi_ssid
  password: !secret wifi_password
  manual_ip:
    static_ip: x.x.x.x
    gateway: x.x.x.x
    subnet: 255.255.255.0

remote_receiver:
  - id: GOLF_IR_RX
    pin:
      number: D1
      inverted: True
      mode:
        input: True
        pullup: True
    dump: all

remote_transmitter:
  - id: GOLF_IR_TX
    pin: D2
    carrier_duty_percent: 50%

I used the receiver to intercept the codes sent by the projector’s actual remote when pressing the Power, Input, and OK buttons. Then I created some buttons.

button:
  - platform: template
    name: Projector Power
    on_press:
      - remote_transmitter.transmit_nec:
          transmitter_id: GOLF_IR_TX
          address: 0x3000
          command: 0xFD02
  - platform: template
    name: Projector Input
    on_press:
      - remote_transmitter.transmit_nec:
          transmitter_id: GOLF_IR_TX
          address: 0x3000
          command: 0xFB04
  - platform: template
    name: Projector OK
    on_press:
      - remote_transmitter.transmit_nec:
          transmitter_id: GOLF_IR_TX
          address: 0x7788
          command: 0xE619

It all went very smooth. Next I connected the circuits for the RF components, which was straightforward. Here are the pinouts from the Amazon product page.

I soldered on the antennas (smaller one to the transmitter) and connected everything on the breadboard.

By using examples from the documentation I was able to intercept RF codes.

When I tried to recreate those codes through the transmitter the results weren’t matching up and the spotlight wasn’t responding. It took some trial and error to configure the various parameters of the receiver. Here’s the end result, with the combined configuration for IR and RF.

esphome:
  name: golf-remote
  friendly_name: Golf Remote

esp8266:
  board: nodemcuv2

logger:

api:
  encryption:
    key: "xxxxxxxxxx"

ota:
  - platform: esphome
    password: "xxxxxxxxxx"

wifi:
  ssid: !secret wifi_ssid
  password: !secret wifi_password
  manual_ip:
    static_ip: x.x.x.x
    gateway: x.x.x.x
    subnet: 255.255.255.0

remote_receiver:
  - id: GOLF_IR_RX
    pin:
      number: D1
      inverted: True
      mode:
        input: True
        pullup: True
    dump: all
  - id: GOLF_RF_RX
    pin:
      number: D6
      mode:
        input: True
        pullup: True
    dump:
      - rc_switch
    tolerance: 50%
    filter: 250us
    idle: 4ms
    buffer_size: 2kb # only for ESP8266

remote_transmitter:
  - id: GOLF_IR_TX
    pin: D2
    carrier_duty_percent: 50%
  - id: GOLF_RF_TX
    pin: D6
    carrier_duty_percent: 100%

After using the remote_receiver instances to get the button press codes I needed, I commented out that section of the code. If I ever need to add more functionality to my remote, I can enable the receivers at that point. Here are the button codes for the spotlight.

  - platform: template
    name: Spotlight On
    on_press:
      - remote_transmitter.transmit_rc_switch_raw:
          transmitter_id: GOLF_RF_TX
          code: '111001000000100100000011'
          protocol: 1
          repeat:
            times: 10
            wait_time: 0s
  - platform: template
    name: Spotlight Off
    on_press:
      - remote_transmitter.transmit_rc_switch_raw:
          transmitter_id: GOLF_RF_TX
          code: '111001000000100100000001'
          protocol: 1
          repeat:
            times: 10
            wait_time: 0s
  - platform: template
    name: Spotlight Green
    on_press:
      - remote_transmitter.transmit_rc_switch_raw:
          transmitter_id: GOLF_RF_TX
          code: '111001000000100100000111'
          protocol: 1
          repeat:
            times: 10
            wait_time: 0s

Then I was able to use both sets of buttons in scripts, which can feed to Alexa for voice commands.

Once everything was tested I wired and soldered a more permanent circuitboard. I included a folded dollar bill for scale.

I was planning to mount it in the ceiling, but the IR was having trouble, because the projector’s receiver faces the ground. Mounting it to the side of the PC cart worked great.

This was a lot of fun!

Update: Less than a week later I’ve already modified it, by adding a DHT22, which reports temperature and humidity. Might as well use that empty D7 pin on the microcontroller.