After tweaking my back and starting a push-only program which has a lot of accessory movements, I’ve been all about unilateral movements. Constantly using the barbell for lifting can create a lot of imbalances. One of the movements we do a lot is a Farmers Carry with kettlebells or dumbbells. Options get limited if you want to go heavier though. Picking up a barbell in one hand, or even a barbell in each hand, never works well. It’s not easy to balance an empty 7 foot long bar, let alone when you have some weight on it.
Companies sell handles you can attach to a barbell, bars with integrated handles, and straps you can loop through weight plates. Most of the barbell solutions I’ve seen cost $150+ and a nice set of strap handles can be $70!
I wanted to come up with something on my own, so I made a trip to Home Depot. I found a 4-pack of 6 foot tie-down straps for $9.97. In the plumbing department they sell 2 foot long pieces of PVC pipe in various diameters. I bought a piece of 3/4 inch for $1.97 and had an employees cut it up.
That’s what I call a successful shopping trip.
Works pretty well. For less than $13 I was able to make a set of handles for myself and a set for a friend. In the video I had no problem using a couple of 55 pound competition bumper plates. I tried two 45s and a 55, but the width of the plates was too much for me to get the handle back through the loop. Two 35s and a 55 might work. If you use thin metal plates you’ll have plenty of strap length and with these rated for 466 pounds, the limitation will be how much you can lift.
After watching recent Adafruit videos (1, 2, & 3) about IR and getting a neat new microcontroller which has a built-in IR transmitter, it looked fun to hack around with. I don’t have an IR receiver though. Then I remembered this old component video switch was in a storage closet. I tore it apart and easily got out the IR receiver. While I was destroying the device I figured I might as well take a bunch of parts that may be useful. If nothing else it was good practice desoldering.
The big PCB with a lot going on is already gone with the trash. The two small PCBs with buttons and LEDs (a triple set and a single) are cool and will be fun to work with since they’re already wired up. Would be neat to use these in an actual project some day.
The other components I kept are:
Of course, I can’t find a datasheet for the one part I want to use. IR is pretty standard, so I’m hoping they didn’t go rogue when developing this device. I’ll post more once I get a chance to experiment.
Several months ago I would have had no idea what any of this stuff was, let alone how it worked. I still don’t know what several of those ICs do, but at least I’m able to look at the traces on the PCBs and follow connections to get a general idea of how everything works.
Never stop learning!
Even better than soldering the ends of a spliced USB cable is tearing apart an old cable to salvage the connectors and soldering your own wires. I only need power so skipped the 2 data wires. Hopefully using my own 22 AWG instead of the cheap stranded wires will be less resistant to a voltage drop as well.
If you have stranded wires add a bit of solder to the ends and it’ll be much easier to work with. This is a USB cable I cut in half so I can add circuitry in between the connectors, which will control the flow of electricity. By soldering the ends I can easily insert the wires into a breadboard and continue prototyping my project.
I didn’t expect to be tearing open my water heater today, but it was not fun taking a cold shower. Looks like a new thermocouple is all I need. I had to do the same thing to my boiler a year or two ago.
Update: Spent $13 at Home Depot and the water is heating up.
The stall shower in my master bathroom was leaking. I tried getting the drain out, but quickly realized it wasn’t possible without access underneath the shower. I didn’t want to cut a hole in the ceiling of the floor below and wasn’t going to tear out the shower. I found this WingTite drain (less than $35 on Amazon). The instructions looked easy enough for me to tackle.
Once I was able to cut out the old drain, the install was a breeze. It helps to get the right mini hacksaw, which was only a $3 add-on when I bought it. It’s been installed for a few months and there hasn’t been any leaking since.
I’m usually very good at keeping parts, but for some reason, a couple of months ago, I threw away all of the mounting brackets for an old Dropcam. Sure enough, I moved the camera to the garage and had no way to mount it. It had been sitting on my vise shelf ever since.
While cleaning out the closet in my office this weekend I came across an old cell phone car mount. Took apart one of the elbow joints, removed the big suction cup from the bottom, and screwed the whole thing directly into the wall using a longer screw and an anchor. It squeeze around the camera for a solid hold, but I looped the cable around the bracket just in case the arm springs fail at some point, so it won’t go crashing to the floor.
Getting it up high provides a better view as well.
Had to make one after the CrossFit Games last weekend. 🙂 Used these instructions as a guide and made a few adjustments. I feel like I just competed in the Games I’m so wrecked from that build. It was a lot of work.
I’ve wanted to make my own for a long time and finally went through with it by pretty much following these instructions. I had the PVC cut into 16 inch pieces at Home Depot and bought two 50 foot pieces of paracord to tie it all together. It took a lot longer than I expected to assemble. I glued each knot so hopefully they don’t slide when pulling on the ladder.
While renovating the garage to make one side entirely a garage gym, I needed a way to store the ladder out of the way. Fun Friday night project!