Tag: cabinet

Outfeed Assembly Table – Part 2

Nick Momrik1 Comment

To keep the momentum going from part 1, I started the next phase of the build. This phase is the router station. I bought the Bosch 1617EVS router to use in a JessEm Mast-R-Lift II, with a POWERTEC 32″ fence. I also bought 2×48″ of T-track with four hold down clamps and a four pack of intersection kits.

First, I had to figure out exactly where to install everything. I placed the fence and lift (upside down) on the table to get a feel for it. Then I outlined the lift and drew in the T-tracks.

Router station setup with a lift and fence on a work table, showing precision tools and measuring instruments.

I cut a spacer equal to the distance from my router base to a 3/8″ straight bit. Then I used double-sided tape to secure the border pieces. I removed the material in two passes and cut out the middle with a jig saw. The radius on the corners was much larger than the router bit, so I free-handed those up to the pencil marks.

A router station setup on a workbench, featuring a Bosch router mounted on a plate, surrounded by wooden pieces and clamps for assembly.
Wooden frame pieces arranged around a cut-out section of MDF, prepared for router station assembly.
Cutout for router lift on a workbench surface, showing the surrounding wood and inner construction.
Close-up view of a JessEm router lift mounted on a flat surface, featuring circular opening and adjustment knobs.

I installed threaded inserts for the four bolts that secure the lift. Yet my centering was off, so it didn’t work out. I removed the inserts and drilled through to use longer bolts with a washer and nut under the table. I had to drill a recess in the bottom because I couldn’t find long enough bolts.

Close-up of a circular hole cut into a wooden surface, showing wood fibers and some markings around the edge.

Setting up to route the first T-track took a long time, like when I did the miter slot extensions. I got faster with each one, as I figured out a process and all of the spacing. That same spacer came in handy, as well as pieces of the T-tracks. I measured and cut all of the T-tracks.

Close-up of a router station setup showing a spacer labeled 'Ryobi Router Spacer w/ 1/8" bit' positioned on a wooden work table with T-tracks in place.
Close-up of a router table setup showing a T-track and fence alignment, with clamps securing components on a work surface.
A top view of a router table, showing a cut-out for the router lift and T-tracks outlined on a smooth surface, with workshop tools and materials visible in the background.
A close-up of a router table setup showing T-tracks being installed around a cutout for the router lift on a work surface.

I sanded the top and edges with 80 grit using my random orbital sander .Then I applied four coats of Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac. A day later I did a light hand sanding with 220 grit and applied paste wax.

A person applying Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac on a wood surface with a cloth, wearing a blue glove.
A wooden table surface featuring a routed hole for a router lift, with T-track outlines drawn on it and a yellow measuring tool positioned nearby.
A can of paste finishing wax and a cleaning cloth placed on a router table surface, featuring a cutout for the router lift.

A good router table needs dust collection and here are the parts I used for mine:

I had to build a cabinet to enclose the router lift, plus a drawer underneath. Due to the table’s frame and a need for the left side, I sketched out a plan. I was making a big version of the L-shaped Tetris piece.

Hand-drawn sketch of a cabinet design with labeled parts and notes, including measurements and assembly details.

The assembly had to be done inside the frame, due to the cabinet nesting up through the frame. After getting plywood to size, I cut various holes, attached 22″ drawer slides, routed a recess for the dust hood, and drilled pocket holes. It all screwed together quickly.

Interior view of a partially constructed router cabinet showing wooden framing and a large flat surface.
View of a router station cabinet with a Bosch router mounted above a shelf, showing the interior structure and power cord.
Underside view of a router station cabinet with a framed structure and a cut-out for dust collection.
A wooden table surface with a marked outline indicating the shape of a cutout.
A black dust hood positioned next to a cutout in a piece of wood, showing the preparation for dust collection in a router table setup.
A close-up of a jig saw cutting a rectangular opening into a wooden surface, with sawdust visible around the cut area.
A close-up view of a dust collection port mounted on a wooden table surface, surrounded by wood shavings.
A workbench with plywood pieces laid out, showing a cut-out section and drawer slides positioned along the top.
Interior view of a wooden cabinet for a router station, featuring a mounted dust collection port and a shelf.

Of course, when using the jig saw, I accidentally cut in to the new table top! I’m the only one who does this, right?

Close-up of a saw cutting through a wooden surface, showing fine wood shavings and a Bosch blade.

I caulked everywhere inside the dust box. Then I cut a door, mounted hinges, added a magnet close, and used weather stripping to seal it. The door got a hole with a vent cover to supply fresh air to the router and dust collection system. After some use I’ll see if I need to add a second vent. I mounted the lift, leveled it to the table, and bolted it in. The lift doesn’t came with a blank insert, so I bought one from an Etsy store.

An empty wooden cabinet without a door, showing internal structures and a dust collection port.
A wooden cabinet with a door open, showing a dust collection system inside and an attached hose on the side.
View of the inside of a router cabinet showing a mounted router, dust collection port, and electrical wiring.
Close-up view of the router mechanism and installation details inside a woodworking table, showing threaded inserts, bolts, and router components.
JessEm router lift plate with adjustment mechanism and mounting holes on a wooden surface.

Update: I did end up adding a second vent.

I cut all the pieces for the drawer, cut a rabbet where the bottom would slide in, and drilled pocket holes. Then I glued and screwed it together. Attached a drawer face and mounted a handle.

Various pieces of wood including a large panel, a long strip, and a smaller piece with cutouts, arranged on a work surface.
Close-up of a partially assembled wooden drawer with a lid resting on top, placed on a workbench in a workshop.
Close-up of a wooden drawer pulled out from a workshop cabinet, featuring a handle and a vent for dust collection.
A close-up view of a drawer in a router station, featuring a clear dust collection hose positioned next to a blue T-track with measurement markings.

Along the left side of the table, I installed my paper roll dispenser. A 90° and then a Y-fitting connect to the dust hood. A 2.5″ blast gate is attached to the other side of the Y, for a hose up to the fence. The power cord went through a 2″ Desk Grommet on the back side. I screwed a POWERTEC Paddle Switch to the front. These switches makes it quick and easy to turn off the machine with my knee. I put in a recessed power strip with USB ports. Then I clipped in the wires and mounted a heavy duty surge protector power strip. This allows me to plug in the table saw as well.

View of the underside of a woodworking table showing the dust collection system with a hose and various connectors.
A router station equipped with a dust collection system, including a clear hose connected to a dust hood, mounted on a wooden table with a fence and control panel.
A side view of a custom router station showing the plywood cabinet, dust collection system, drawer, and a red power switch.
View of the side of a router table cabinet showing a white panel with a power cord and dust collection hose exiting the side.
A close-up view of a mounted power strip featuring multiple outlets and a surge protector, with power cords neatly organized and secured underneath a router table.

The final thing was to lower the castor feet to raise the table up to the saw.

A woodworking table with a level placed on top, showing the setup for a router station, including a saw and T-track system in a workshop.

It’s so nice to have a large table table in the shop and I’m excited for the router, where it’s easy to use and always ready. Here are some more pictures.

A woodworking router table setup featuring a large wooden surface with T-tracks, a mounted router lift, and a dust collection system. The table includes various tools and materials organized on the surrounding wall.
A woodworking router station setup featuring a large wooden table, equipped with a fence and clamp, installed within a workshop environment.

There are the other accessories I bought for the router station, some of which can also be used at the table saw:

It’s going to be a bit until I finish, since I’m having hernia surgery this Friday. When I get the “go ahead” from the doc I’ll finish the rest of the storage space under the table.

Table Saw Cabinet

Nick Momrik2 Comments

There was a big open space under the right wing of my new SawStop and it was the perfect spot for a cabinet to organize the table saw accessories.

I pulled out a sheet of plywood that got roughed up during the move. Went through a few iterations of how to size the cabinet and where to cut the pieces from.

Assembly went pretty quick, only using screws in case I ever want to make adjustments. It’s not going to hold much weight, so no need for glue.

I dug through my hardware to find hinges, handles, and a magnet catch. Since I should rarely move this thing, I attached a set of non-swivel castors, which only added 2″ of height.

When I went to slide it under the saw I had a moment of panic because it didn’t fit! I hadn’t accounted for the triangle-shaped brackets attaching the legs to the saw wing. I ended up removing the castors from the SawStop’s mobile base and the cabinet slid in. If I ever need to move the saw, it only takes a few minutes to put the wheels back on.

In the lower right, you can see the saw blade holder I recently made. I added old handles to make it easier to grab.

This cabinet was quick to make and makes great use of what would be dead space. Time to start building an outfeed table!

Doubling My Spray Can Storage

Nick Momrik3 Comments

A little over a year and a half ago I made a box with dividers for storing spray paint.

It was built to slide in a shelf at the old house. I was able to get it out and moved to the new house. The 16″ depth was wasted space though. Look at how deep the cans were when laying with the back on the ground (those higher ones are actually a tall can on top of a standard can).

It turns out, a great size for spray cans is about eight inches, so I split it down the middle and wrestled out all of the dividers, which were partially glued in place.

Stack ’em, screw ’em together, and nail a back on the new half.

It was very tippy, so I rounded the corners on a larger piece of plywood to make a more stable base and pulled out office chair casters. The casters wouldn’t be great for any heavy shop furniture, so this was the perfect project to use them.

Cutting more dividers and then redoing all of the slots was the worst part of this project. It took well over 250 cuts on the table saw.

A handful of the new hardboard pieces were too long and needed to be trimmed. Other than that, the assembly went much smoother than I expected, with a little persuasion from a dead blow hammer. I have no idea why I used glue on that first iteration. Maybe it was needed with the deeper box, but this one is very stable without a drop of glue.

This is another great upgrade to the shop. After adding all of my spray paint, lubricants, spray adhesives, and other oddball cans there is plenty of room for more.

A Shop Safety Cabinet for PPE

Nick Momrik1 Comment

I’ve wanted some type of cabinet in my workshop for PPE and earlier this year I saw a cool cabinet that I thought might be perfect. Fast forward to the new house, the wall, and a new shop (post coming soon), so when I saw the Facebook Marketplace listing again I jumped on it.

Aren’t the graphics great on those green stickers? I only paid $25 for this Sellstrom Model 2000 Germicidal Cabinet. A new one is currently 51% off on Amazon, which brings it down to $599 and replacement UV light bulbs cost over $100! This unit had some rust, like it had been sitting in a puddle, but otherwise it barely seemed used. The light bulb still works and so does the timer pictured below, which can be set to run for up to 5 minutes. You can also see the UV light bulb on inside the cabinet, through that tiny window.

I used a razor blade to scrape as much of the rust off as I could and then used a sanding block. I cleaned the areas with mineral spirits and masked them off with painter’s tape. The bare metal got a coat of rusty metal primer.

The few inside corners were painted with a non-matching white, which nobody will see. I painted the bottom exterior area with some black, which turned out great. I hung the cabinet near the door and surrounded it with my glove dispenser and other safety stuff.

Floating Walnut Nighstands

Nick Momrik2 Comments

With our new house having a big walk-in closet we won’t need dressers, so we’ll be selling our bedroom set, which meant it was a good time for new nightstands. Here’s a photo dump of the build.

These will be floating on the wall in the new house, with about five inches of space under them. I did a lot of things in this build I’ve never tried before, so I learned a lot. I love how the decorative grooves turned out on the drawer fronts, which was inspired by something Michael Alm did on his kitchen cupboards. The oak handles were made with inspiration from a couple we liked on Etsy (1 & 2).

I can’t wait to get moved in this summer and mount these on the wall!

Cabinet and Counter Changes

Nick Momrik5 Comments

After moving the fridge, the corner space was ready for a makeover

I removed the rest of the backsplash tiles around the room. Luckily I didn’t have to be too careful with that process because the walls will all be covered up there.

Then I built an open shelf cabinet.

I’m repurposing the counter and drawer cabinet from the desk, so I put them out to get a feel for the spacing.

I made a bunch of measurements and got to chopping up the countertops. Then I removed several layers of old flooring across the area. I placed some new counter supports along the wall where the fridge had been, and adjusted the one on the right wall, which was pretty far out of level.

Next I worked on modifying the cabinet. I added extra support under the cabinet, removed three of the drawer slides, cut out the cross members, and added pieces to hold up a cover that’ll go over the remaining drawer. I also cut new pieces to extend the face frame higher since this cabinet is too short.

I measured a wine bottle and cut hardboard to box in an area that’ll be a wine rack.

Then I cut a bunch of 1/4″ thick by 3/4″ wide strips. It took some thinking to figure out how to get going, but making a 3-1/2″ square block to act as my spacer was the key, because that’s how large I wanted the lattice openings. I used glue and pin nails for assembly and then made a second lattice.

I cut strips for face frames and used a 45° to help with placement, making sure to maximize the number of full diamonds available while keeping things centered. This will give us space for nine bottles, which is more than sufficient. I made sure it would work with both lattices since they needed to match.

Then I was able to trim the lattice and attach the frame with glue and pin nails again. I used some of the off cuts around the edges so I could attach the frame to the back strips of the lattice as well.

At this point I had to make sure it was going to work. The width was a great fit!

I spray painted these pieces since it would be much harder to paint them when everything was put together. Everything needed several coats.

The cupboard is going right in front of the new outlet I installed, so I cut access holes.

I cut pieces to extend the face frame higher and made a new left side, since it’ll be somewhat visible next to the beverage fridge. I started securing all the different pieces in place. Then I used wood filler on gaps and nail heads.

After sanding I hauled the unit upstairs and had make a few minor mods to get it to fit. Then I installed the two cabinets and the two counter pieces. I guess I didn’t have the drawer in when I took this picture.

I’m so glad I was able to use the counter and cabinet from the desk. This was a lot of work, but it’s a huge improvement to the usability of our kitchen.